As my flight to London went via San Francisco it seemed rude not to take advantage of a short stopover - particularly as Miles (Rachael's boyfriend) is currently living there and had a couch with my name all over it!
After arriving, wending my way through the hills of SF's suburbs in a shared shuttle bus, then getting the keys from Miles, it was off to Pacific Heights. Miles lives on the border of
Pacific Heights and the
Tenderloin - so near to all sorts of interesting things! Day 1 had fantastic weather which I absolutely had to take advantage of, so I walked down to the Marina, checked out the Golden Gate bridge in all her afternoon sunshiney glory, then around the coast and back up the steep cable car street home. Oh, and via
Whole Foods - or as it's colloquially known, Whole Wallet... It's definitely expensive but such delicious food! With a bit of mozzarella and proscuitto I transformed Miles' fridge ingredients into a pizza...mmm...
Day 2 dawned bright and sunny again, and after a sleep-in to recover from the plane ride, I ran down
Van Ness Avenue to try and make the midday free tour of city hall - unfortunately just missing it by 5 minutes! But never fear, another one was scheduled for 2.30pm so I investigated downtown while I waited. It was a bit sketchy, what with all sorts of people muttering to themselves (and yelling to themselves too), and if I wanted to buy some dodgy goods I'm sure I was in the right neighbourhood, but interesting nonetheless. It was also directly adjacent to the fancy part of downtown (Saks 5th Avenue and the like) - I guess all the locals know exactly where the borders are!
Back at
City Hall I had an absolutely brilliant 1 and 3/4 hour tour with our guide Al Lopez. He knew everything! It was fascinating how the building's had such an unstable history - completely destroyed in 1906 by an earthquake, rebuilt, hosted some infamous marriages (Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio), another earthquake in 1989 (whose cracks are still visible today) and political assasinations (
Harvey Milk). It's a beautiful building as well - I would definitely recommend stopping by if you're in town!
After that it was a short stroll back through the Tenderloin and again to Whole Foods where I found some
tamales for dinner. I'd always wanted to try them - just to see what they were as I'd heard the name and heard that they can be delicious! I can attest that they're quite delicious and I'll keep my eye out for them in London! After dinner Miles and I went to the California Academy of Sciences for their
NightLife event. It was brilliant! The museum is packed with people, there are cocktails, DJs, and the ground floor aquarium (where we spent most of our time) was all dimly lit so the amazing colours etc. of the fish can be seen really well. I particularly liked the pulsating jellyfish and scaredy-cat seahorses. Hopefully some of the photos come out! We even managed to get a cab home without waiting too long which was an absolute coup.
The next day was nice and lazy - I slept in, checked emails etc. and then ventured up to
Japantown where I had to physically restrain myself from buying every single piece of crockery I saw... I particularly loved these crumpled china mugs - like
these ones - but thought they might be a bit inappropriate considering how close to (ok, over) the luggage limit I was! That night Miles and I went out to a delicious Thai restaurant in Pacific Heights, then into town for some cocktails at a kind of hidden bar behind another bar - very urban cool ;)
Saturday (my last day) ended up being a behemoth (we walked about 5 miles or 8km). First we walked to Chinatown for some dim sum (or yum cha as I've always called it) at a place called Gold Mountain - at US$11 each it was an absolute bargain. Their sticky rice was the best I've ever had - definitely another recommendation! Then, to work it off we went to a place called
Precita Eyes in the
Mission District. This is a community-based mural art organisation - murals being a big part of Latin American culture, and with 75% of the Mission's inhabitants being Latin American, no wonder it set up shop there. We went on a tour with one of the muralists (Patricia Rose) and saw hundreds of different murals. The streets were packed as there was a food festival in the neighbourhood at the time so it felt like a really buzzy, full-on place. The murals were beautiful and it was so interesting to hear their back stories.
Then it was off! Our taxi driver home from the Mission (and mine onwards to the airport) had been to NZ recently and was a great find - chatting all about this and that. I worry that I didn't tip him enough - it's so difficult to know what to do!! As with all other NZers I fervently wish the whole thing just didn't exist...
And then to London where a whole lot of new adventures await!