When we found out that both of our offices were closing down over the Christmas period, there was a mad scramble to the internet to see what cheap, last-minute deal we could get for a quick holiday between Christmas and NYE. Of the places we had down on our respective ‘want-to-visit’ lists and which had good deals on offer, Budapest came out tops! (Or ‘top-best’ as our guide in Turkey a few years back would always say).
So early on Boxing Day it was off to the airport for a quick hop on Malev Hungarian Airlines (no cheap airline for us my friend!) over to freeeeeeeeeeeeeezing (there aren’t enough e’s in the world to explain to you the coldness) Budapest. But luckily, as we were living it up in style, our hotel room was nice and warm (although not cosy – we got the wheelchair friendly room so it was massive!) and we were well rugged up against the cold wearing an interesting and fashionable selection of thermals, gloves, scarves, jackets and hats.
We spent the first day exploring the Buda side of the river, including the usual suspects of the castle, St Mattias church, the Fisherman’s Bastion and Gellert Hill. It was all covered in snow and any refuge indoors we could find was most welcome, but the walk up Gellert Hill was nice and warming as well so a good choice of activity to round off the day. We also got into the local culinary scene by trying some paprika flavoured chips! Dinner was at the Christmas market in the middle of town on the Pest side. We got a fried potato pancake kind of thing smothered in sour cream (Hungarian cuisine is most definitely not calorie-conscious) and a kürtös kalács which is a kind of twisted Hungarian doughnut. Delicious! The Christmas market was smaller than the ones we had seen in Munich, but it was nice to be able to catch them for a few days after Christmas anyway.
Day two was spent looking at things on the Pest side, including the Synagogue, food market, Parliament, and Heroes’ Square. The highlight though was definitely the baths – we went to the Szechenyi baths which were the big ones at the top of the hill (painted yellow). It was dark while we were there, and snowing, so with the heat coming up off the 38 degree water it made it all foggy and very cool. Such a strange feeling to have the snow coming down while you were heated from the bottom! They had three outdoor pools, then lots of indoor ones – and we tried them all! The saunas were a bit too hot for me to stay in for too long, but the whirly jet pool outside which propelled you around in a circle was ridiculously fun.
I should mention here the joy of our hotel breakfast. It was a buffet in the Hungarian style – so lots of eggs, meat, bread etc. Basically perfect lunch food! There was a small sign asking not to take things for lunch, but it was ignored by almost everyone there. We tried to be subtle about it, but some families had almost chain-gang style lunch making going on with piles of ham and cheese rolls ending up at the end of each table! It was great though to have some boiled eggs and rolls to get us through the day between our massive breakfast and dinners...
Day three we went out into the Budapest ‘burbs to Memento Park. It’s basically a big patch of land where they put all the statues from the Communist era together. Because they were mostly intended to be seen from a fair distance, having them right on the ground looks crazy! The scale is all skewy. It was a bit of an adventure getting the trams and buses out there and thank goodness I knew about how long it should take because it felt like we were seeing the entire suburban landscape on the way! Unfortunately again, it was freeeeeezing so while they had a really interesting film on (an original ‘how-to’ guide for communist spies), it was far too cold to sit there watching it for long. We also saw the cathedral that day before heading to an all you can eat and drink restaurant for dinner. While this wouldn’t normally be top of our list of places to eat, it was actually really good – lots of Hungarian things like goulash and the quality was pretty good. The red wine servings were rather enormous though which led to a bit of a headache the next day...
Our last day was spent visiting the cathedral and some other random bits of pieces around the city like a great sculpture made up of little shoes along the banks of the Danube. It was kind of a shame it was so freezing that we couldn’t stroll around the city at a leisurely pace, but at the same time the snow was very pretty and it was always a great excuse to pop into a coffee shop for a piece of cake to warm up!
The photos are here – enjoy!
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