La Bella Italia!
We've been here for a few days now and it is living up to nearly every expectation I have ever had about Italy! I love all the gesticulating, the fashion, the food, and of course, the absolutely, completely, unbelieveably insane driving (we nearly died today on our drive from Amalfi to Napoli...).
Arriving off the train in Bari, we had to do a bit of fence scaling to escape the port complex (they're not big on directions or signs here), but safely over we dragged our tired bodies through Bari to the train station in the surprising 28 degree heat. Saying ciao to Megan, we hopped on a train to Taranto. It was only five minutes after we got on that I (Amelia) realised that we could have got a cheaper train directly to our final destination, rather than the rather long winded and more expensive route I had accidentally picked. Ah well, at least we saw some more of Italy's countryside...
Our first stop was Matera. Yeah, I had never heard of it either. It's in the middle of Italy, about equi-distant from each coast. It's a jumble of old houses, churches, rock churches, and caves built into two valleys called 'sassi'. People were living in the caves until the 1950s, when the extreme poverty came to light and they were all forcibly removed into housing blocks. Not entirely sure it was a better move having talked to some of the locals! The landscape was stunning, although nothing compared to our hostel, Le Moncelle. It was a converted monastery, complete with chapel, bell tower and rooftop terrace - let's just say we're in a different hostel world now we've moved to Italy!
On the way to our next destination we briefly stopped in Salerno. Not expecting much, the Duomo (cathedral) there was absolutely incredible. Quite possibly the best church I have ever seen. Not only was it absolutely massive with exquisite mosaics and decorations, but the crypt which reputedly holds the relics of St Matthew (yes, the one and only) was unbelievable. The whole crypt was painted and the photos here don't quite do it justice (the ones of the crypt are at the end). Definitely one to beat (bring it on Rome).
After Matera we moved on to the Amalfi Coast, home to (and I quote), 'international jet setters seeking sun and romance' (or some such tourist nonsense). However, it was pretty amazing. The sea was startling blue, the narrow roads stomach churning, and the terraced farming on the hillsides something else. We were staying up in Agerola, up in the mountains, where apparently they used to send people with respiratory problems because the air was so beneficial and clean! Compared to the car fumes eminating from the houses near the road, I'm sure it was better up there...
We happened to luck in on Amalfi's saint's day which was cool, complete with marching band, paper mache figurine and fireworks. We also did the 'Walk of the Gods', a 3 hour walk from Bomerano in the mountains down to Postiano on the coast. The views were stunning, the 1700 (I swear I'm telling the truth) steps down at the end to the coast were not so much.
Photos soon we promise!
Next stop, Napoli.
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