South Africa #3

Hallo (Afrikaans for hello) from Kroonstad for an update #3:



So we were supposed to look at the CBD and all the municipal buildings in Pretoria before going to the cheetah centre - but I completely got the timing wrong (13.30 does not mean 3.30pm in case you were wondering), so we didn't see Pretoria city in the end and hoofed it out to the Ann van Dyk Cheetah Centre just in time for the start of the tour. It was very cool to see all the cheetah (or is the plural cheetahs??) but having already had such a wonderful time at Moholoholo, it was kind of hard not to be a bit jaded (as terrible as that sounds!). This one was quite enormous though so we went round on a big safari truck and having the African wild dogs all chasing the truck and being so close to everything was pretty cool. All the rehab centres do a wonderful job so it's fantastic to be able to support what they do. 


That night we threw caution and all our rand to the wind and went out for a quite fancy dinner at a place called Pappa's in Pretoria. I had another potjiekos while Adrian had an ostrich stew, Dan an enormous T-bone steak and Emilia had calamari - delicious. In fact, it was so delicious that we bought the potjiekos dishes that everything came in as souvenirs! They're cast iron and pretty heavy so hopefully we get them home without paying excess luggage...


The following day it was down to Joburg to meet up with my friends Fats and Andrew who I met at Oxford. Andrew's from Port Elizabeth but was up in Joburg for some of the football and Fats actually grew up in Soweto and still has a lot of friends and family in town so he was enjoying being back for the football too. They took us on a fantastic tour of the city - starting off in Newtown which is a slowly gentrifying area close to the CBD (where he pointed out the police buildings where all the dissidents 'committed suicide' while in police cells) and the original market buildings of Joburg when it was still very much a gold-rush town. Next we went to a kind of traditional medicine market which was very much not on the tourist trail at all and had all sorts of hallucinogenic plants, animals (all dead, either whole or in bits), leopard skins, and lots of different types of bark which no-one was really sure what it was for, but very interesting nonetheless. After that we went to Soweto's first mall which is actually pretty iconic because until only a couple of years ago, you couldn't work or shop in Soweto - it was only a place to come home and sleep so the fact that there's a big mall owned by a former resident of Soweto which has ATMs and everything is quite a big deal. In fact, I was quite surprised at how developed Soweto was - although Fats said that quite a lot of it has come about relatively recently (like having minor roads tarsealed, not just the big main ones). One thing which was totally crazy though was the hospital - one million people pass through its doors every day! Can you believe it?? Soweto has six million, but its such a renowned centre for trauma accidents that medical staff come from all over the world to work there. We then went for lunch in Soweto near Nelson Mandela's house which we toured after lunch. It was really interesting to see it having read his autobiography so recently. The house was quite focused on Winnie - unsurprising given she lived there much longer than Nelson I suppose. It was great being shown round by two locals - really gave such an interesting insight into the whole thing.


That night for dinner we went to this restaurant buffet which I'd randomly found on the internet - it's called Chief Boma's and was insane. We ate warthog, kudu, ostrich, impala and springbok - just to name a few! And as well as all that meat, so much other stuff - I'm a huge fan of these macaroon type things they called Hertzogs...mmm... We rolled out of there feeling so ill... But it was a bit of a deal, R155 for two people so we definitely got our money's worth!


The next day was our big game day in Joburg and from the get-go was a bit of a schmozzle. We started the day with a flat tyre which we had to change before we could get on the road, then we had to pick up our ticket for the park-n-ride which turned into an absolute nightmare with Adrian and I literally running for 30 minutes trying to find a place which was open to pick it up at, and with Emilia and Dan getting stuck in a taxi queue outside ParkStation which we gathered was not the most savoury place to be hanging out in... Then, after getting completely lost in the motorway system despite the help of our trusty GPS Suzy, we managed to have to wait for ages to get lunch before finally, finally getting into the Apartheid Museum at about 3pm (and which the booklet said closed at 5pm so we all rushed through, but actually closed at 6.30...). However, even if we had to rush a bit, it was absolutely incredible. Honestly one of the best museums I've ever been to. It was completely heartbreaking, and just made you incredulous that people could be so inhumane to other people. I honestly cannot recommend it enough. 


It was a bit strange to go from that to our final game, but I guess it was a symbol of the new South Africa to have such a crazy mix of things going on. It was Paraguay vs Spain which, thank goodness, the Spanish won! (We don't like the Paraguishans because they made us go out). We had pretty good seats and after nearly an hour's queue for some potato spirals (delicious) settled in for the game. The whole World Cup thing has been interesting, but being a complete football heretic I'm actually quite glad that we don't have to watch any more football now...



The next day we drove the big trek down to Lesotho. Now, that deserves its own post in an of itself, so stay tuned for the next installment!

South Africa #2

Hi again everyone!

It feels like it's forever that we've been here - but actually it's only just over two weeks! Just goes to show how fantastic this holiday's being.

Right, let me recap from where I left off.

The day after NZ vs Italy we went to a reptile park where we saw lots of venomous snakes (adders, mambos etc.) , some big, hairy spiders, as well as some big friendly pigs who loved having their chins scratched! It was quite interesting to learn a bit more about snakes - such as the fact that they've all got the remains of back legs from when they used to look more like iguanas etc.

But the day after that was the biggie - Kruger National Park! We got up at the most ungodly hour of 5am, then were bundled into our open top safari 4WD (complete with blankets, thank goodness, as it was FREEZING), then drove to the Numbi gate at bang on 6am. A quite dispiriting hour followed where the only thing we saw were a couple of impala and each other's cold and hungry faces! But a hot breakfast stop later, and a bit warmer so the animals were getting up, it was all on! We saw: 2 male lions complete with big scarred faces, lots of herds of giraffes and zebras, a male elephant whose musk scent was quite overpowering, 2 other herds of elephants, chacma baboons, some leopard tortoises (unfortunately no leopards though!), warthogs, gemsbok, kudu, mongeese (mongooses?) and all sorts of other antelope creatures. It was BRILLIANT! It really lived up to all expectations.

The day after that we drove up to Polokwane (which used to be called Pietersburg) to see what turned out to be the final NZ game (vs Paraguay). Again, how proud were we of our team - undefeated!! And even though we're out of the match, we still sent Italy home as well which was pretty good. We stayed in a pretty dodgy part of town, and our funny campsite had barbed wire all around it, plus a security guard, but it was actually pretty good fun because the whole place was NZers. After the game we met this Afrikaaner couple (Jeanne and Rolonde) who took us in their car to the bar where all the Kiwis were and we had a really fun night celebrating our team.

The next day we went to the Polokwane Game Reserve where we saw white rhinos from about 10m away - they were so close! - and a whole flock of ostriches. That night, we went and stayed at Jeanne and Rolonde's house and they made us a 'potjiekos' which is a traditional Afrikaaner stew - it was so delicious and they were so kind to have us random strangers to stay! Everyone we've met has been so friendly, it's been great.

From Polokwane we drove north to the Blyde River Canyon. On the way we saw the 'Sunland Baobab' - supposedly the biggest baobab in the world and which has a bar inside it! How random. We set up at the campsite in Blyde River (where we had some more fantastic braais with borewors) and then the next day went for a big hike around the canyon. It was absolutely breathtaking - it's the third largest canyon in the world and we saw lots of beautiful waterfalls and vistas. Emilia even got a photo of the elusive protea she's been looking for!

After another braai that night, the next day was a bit of a surprise - it was raining! It was the first day of rain we've had and considering every day since has been brilliantly sunny, it could even be our last. We went to the 'Echo Caves' which were a traditional hiding place during the Stone Age for the local tribe and which were rediscovered by an Afrikaaner farmer during the 1920s. It was really interesting - being the amateur geologist I am! After that we drove south to Graskop to Harrie's Pancake House - delicious! I had venison, Dan had chicken livers, Emilia had biltong and mozzarella and Adrian had peach and pork...mmmm... (By the way, we are in love with the biltong!). After that we went to the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre which was something we'd been told about by a guy on our Kruger safari. It was excellent! It cares for lots of animals who have been captured on private farms - including some tame(ish) cheetahs which are used for educational purposes, some lions, lynx, cervils, and even a leopard! We finally saw one so now we don't have to search so high and low anymore... There was even a baby black rhino who charged everyone, too cute. The other highlight there was all the birds - especially the eagles and the vultures. Emilia and Adrian fed a vulture - eek!! But very cool, I can't wait to put the photos up.

From there we've come down to Pretoria. Yesterday afternoon we went to the Japan v Paraguay game which was a nil all draw even into extra time - which meant we got a penalty shootout! We were going for Japan which was a bit sad they didn't get through, but because of the result of another game that day, our next (and final) game is Spain v Paraguay in Joburg in a couple of days time. After the game we had some delicious chicken and rice which some ladies were cooking up on the side of the road, then went out to a local bar to watch the later game - meeting some more very friendly locals! Everyone seems to be very keen that the tourists have a great time here - and tell everyone at home to visit! I have to say it's working on me...

And so today we're going to see the capital buildings in Pretoria, then out to a cheetah rehabilitation centre north of the city. Tomorrow we're catching up with some friends from Oxford in Joburg which I'm really looking forward to, then after a few more days in the big smoke, down to Lesotho.

The travel's been really good so far (apart from when my camera got hit out of my hand and broke...gutted...but thank goodness Adrian's got such a good camera - which I have basically hijacked now), can't complain at all. We're eating our bodyweight in meat (borewors, stew, biltong...) and the luxury of being in proper beds at the moment after two weeks of winter camping is unbelievable.

I hope everything's going well at home - hopefully I'll be able to write another update soon!

South Africa!

Hello!



I'm coming to you from Hazyview, just a hop, skip and a jump from Kruger National Park (where we're going for a safari in a couple of days - exciting!). 



There's so much to update, and not that much time (internet is surprisingly expensive), so I'll do my best...



We started off with me spraining my ankle in Joburg in a pothole in the pavement, which could have been absolutely disasterous, but thanks to some Macgyver-esque strapping with a pack handle the crisis was averted and it's only slightly sore now. We watched a football game then drove up through the night to Rustenburg. Our car is great - roomy enough and already lots of chips and dents so we won't feel too bad if we make too many more!



Rustenburg was FREEZING. Absolutely so, so cold. However, my fantastic new sleeping bag was a star and kept me nice and toasty. Adam on the other hand was slightly less prepared and spent a first pretty uncomfortable night before borrowing some thermals to sleep in the next night. The first game in Rustenburg was great fun, particularly due to that brilliant late goal! We stayed in a camp site in a nature reserve which was ok, and spent a lot of time at the malls just getting camping gas, new gloves, pies etc. We also went out to Sun City, which is this apartheid-era resort which was absolutely crazy. It's all completely over the top, but we saw these crocodiles at their crocodile reserve which were incredible. A) I've never seen that many crocodiles, B) I've never seen any that big before (some were over a tonne!) and C) I'm glad it's winter and they're not so active...



After Rustenburg we drove into Limpopo province to a small town called Thabazimbi where we stayed at the Thaba Nkwe Bushveld Inn with some really nice people. We were the only people camping (and they thought we were insane), but they took us out on a hunt one morning (fortunately none of the shots were successful) and we ate the biggest steaks I've ever seen. We also went to the Marakele National Park where we saw giraffes, warthogs, lots of varieties of antelopes and even a herd of elephants!! That was very cool - and slightly scary when our car somehow got caught between them, but a brilliant experience.



From Thabazimbi we drove down to Joburg to pick Emilia up via a town called Bela-Bela which has this big hot baths complex. I've got a massive bruise on my cocyx from bumping down these incredibly fun hydroslides (we're all just big kids really). From Joburg we've come out here to Hazyview. Yesterday was the NZ vs Italy game which was fantastic. The goal at what, minute seven, led to everyone being drenched with beer, hugging complete strangers and generally just being extremely excited. If NZ goes through our travel plans are completely shot (we'll have to drive down to Cape Town...) but wouldn't that be amazing.



We've been watching pratically every other football game going which has been a bit of an overload for me, but the others are absolutely loving it. There are lots of tourists about, probably about 500-750 NZers I'd say, and everyone seems to be in a pretty good mood.



I'm sure there's lots I've forgotten to say, and I wish I could post some photos, but rest assured you'll all get bored with them when I finally do!



We're having another braai (bbq) for lunch today, then off to a reptile park and potentially some waterfalls this afternoon too.



I'll check in soon!

20 hours in Singapore

It's official. I am seriously, head over heels in love with Changi Airport. Singapore, how did you get it so right?!


Let me backtrack...right to the beginning.


My flight (Singapore Airlines) to Singapore was pretty uneventful - bar a bout of twitchy leg starting before I even got on the plane and which got progressively worse until (sorry Dr Stone) I couldn't take it any longer and had to take a sleeping pill... It took about 45 minutes to kick in, but gave me a blessed three-four hours of relief. And it was a way shorter flight than anticipated (just under 11 hours, rather than 13, which made so much difference) so I got off the plane in not too bad shape.


However, I had a plan. I've done a bit of research on the airport and heard so much about it from everyone else that I knew all the things I wanted to do. First stop, book myself in for a free tour. I got on the tour at 11am so seeing as at this stage it was only 7am, it was off to search for a reclining couch for a bit of shut-eye. I had nearly two hours of sleep once I finally found them - genius!


Then it was up and out for my tour. I had landed on the 'colonial' one which was all about the city's heritage (rather than the 'cultural' one which went through Chinatown etc.). It was really interesting! I had no idea this Raffles character was such an important guy (apart from giving his name to a hotel of course). Our guide was pretty frank - telling us bad things as well as good about Singapore - and it made it much more interesting compared to a bland from rote tour. We got off the bus near the main city buildings and WHAM. It is rather hot here I must say... Ok, no, can't keep up that charade. It is HOT, H-O-T. The humidity slapped you in the face and it's like walking around in soup. I know this will come as no surprise to the vast majority of people who may read this, but it's all a novelty to me!!


Back on the bus and then back to the airport, where I immediately turned around and booked myself on the other free shuttle to get into town. I love you Changi! I got dropped off at a place called Suntec City which is a giant mall, which I immediately left and made for the subway to get downtown to go for lunch at a hawker food centre called Lau Pa Sat which I gather is a bit of an institution. For $4.50 (one of only two choices available at the place I chose to go to) I had 'braised meat ban yian' which was delicious (the proof of which is splattered all over my t-shirt at the moment). I honestly think I could live in Asia just for the food alone!!


After lunch I wandered back towards Suntec via Chinatown, finding interesting temples and parks and things to fritter away memory space on my camera (I'll try and upload pictures as soon as I find a computer where I can and it's not too dodgy). Several things intrigued me: what is the toasted sandwich-like thing that everyone's eating? Also what is the dried pork all about? And are televisions particularly cheap here as I seriously saw at least 20 being checked in as luggage (mostly it seemed to India??). I love the grass - it's all fat-leaved and was lovely to walk on. And all the (hundreds!) of ships up and down the coast - are they heading to China?? I also saw a Swensens! (Mention of that is just for you Mum).



Then, back on my, again free, shuttle to the airport, where I went to the rooftop pool for a swim and a shower. That's right, the ROOFTOP POOL. Auckland Airport, avert your eyes in shame! You have a lot, I repeat, a lot, to learn from Changi. A swim and a shower was glorious and prepped me for my $3.80 (no, that's not a typo) laksa from the airport food court. $3.80!!! And it was delicious! I don't know what's different about Singaporean laksa, but it always seems browner, richer somehow than Thai laksa (or is laksa not really from Thailand and I just have no idea). Anyway, totally yum. 



Now I'm making use of the free internet, before I go down and watch Algeria vs. Slovenia on the big screens they're showing all the World Cup matches on. Honestly, it's going to be hard to get on the flight!



Sorry it's been such a long one, but I do have five more hours to kill until I even have to be at my gate, so you'll just have to lump it!



Next stop, Johannesburg!!!!



(P.S. Slovenia won 1-0! If they can do it, surely NZ can...)

Bafana Bafana!!!

So, the day has finally arrived - we're off to South Africa for the World Cup!! The excitement (and nervousness) has also finally kicked in... It's somewhere that I've grown up hearing about and have always wanted to visit - and while to go at a time like this is admittedly a bit crazy and full-on, it's going to be AWESOME. I can just feel it.

Here's the map of our trip (click on it or the link in blue underneath to explore!):




View South Africa 2010 in a larger map

We'll try and keep up the posts - maybe not photos depending on the security of the internet cafes - but a few words at least. I've got a first stop in Singapore (somewhere I've also never been) so will see what I can tell you about that.

(Oh, and Bafana Bafana translates to 'The Boys, The Boys' and is the colloquial name for the South African football team - they drew 1 all with Mexico last night so here's hoping they can improve their form. We're hoping for a New Zealand vs South Africa final doncha know?!)